New Orleans was not a place that was ever on my radar as a child. We had no New Orleans style restaurants around where I lived or where we vacationed in the summer. There was no Cajun or Creole recipes that were ever made in my kitchen. By the time I had reached high school, I had of course heard of New Orleans and the term “Gumbo” had been heard but not ever tried. But when my third class of Culinary School hit, I was finally introduced to this dish that was like nothing I had ever tried before. Thick and dark, with layers of spice and flavor unlike any food I had ever tasted. I was hooked immediately and couldn’t wait to try more goodies from “Nawlins”.
It was one of the first dishes I couldn’t wait to make for my family. I had my Mom get all the ingredients and made up a hearty gumbo for my family to try. Their enthusiasm, while there and enjoyed it, did not match to my level. Gumbo came first, then Jambalaya, ‘Po Boys, Muffuletta and Shrimp Etouffee. I knew as soon as I became an “adult”, meaning graduated college and had some money of my own, I would get down there as soon as I could.
Well, sadly it’s been almost 20 years since I got out of culinary school and college, and I’m embarrassed to admit I still have not been. It’s not for not wanting to, it’s still on my top 3 places I want to visit in the United States. But other trips came along such as multiple family trips to Disney, then moving to Florida and well, life. Getting pulled in different areas for weddings, which I loved, and then fortunately getting to go to Europe. Even with all that, I’m still longing to get down there and experience the culture, the food and the people that make New Orleans such a special city that has a legacy like no other.
Ok so let’s back track a little from my wanderlust. Some of you might be wondering, what is gumbo anyways? And what is the different between Cajun and Creole cuisine? Isn’t all New Orleans Cuisine the same? Well I got answers! Gumbo is a thick stew, usually featuring sausage, seafood and maybe poultry of some kind. The sausage that is commonly used is called Andouille Sausage, which is most often associated with Louisiana Cajun cuisine, where it is a coarse ground sausage made using pork, garlic, pepper, onions, wine, and other seasonings. This usually isn’t a spicy sausage in heat but spicy more so in flavor.
Now Cajun and Creole Cuisines: Both were originated in Louisiana. Both were from a melting pot of backgrounds. Both generally use what is called the “Holy Trinity” in their dishes: celery, onions and green peppers. Both generally have plenty of spices to go around. But they are different. Cajun food is generally more rustic food, found along the bayous of Louisiana, and is a combination of French and Southern cuisines. It was brought to Louisiana from the French who actually migrated from Nova Scotia. They created dishes using what they found in the land. Think of meals with lots of smoked meats as well as meat-heavy, one-pot dishes like jambalaya or gumbo. Using crawfish found in the Bayou, they also created the popular Crawfish Boil.
Creole Cuisine is a bit more refined. Creole food has even more blends with European, African and Native American roots. The French influence is strongest, but vestiges of Italian, Spanish, German, and even Caribbean can be found in some dishes. The essence of Creole is found in rich sauces that also feature local seafood. Another primary difference is that Creole often used tomatoes in its dishes, where Cajun food does not. Think of shrimp creole, grits and red beans and rice.
The base of a true Louisiana Gumbo is a roux. If you aren’t familiar with what a roux is, it’s a cooked mixture of fat and flour. I say fat because it can be made with a butter or oil, but does not specifically have to be either one exactly. The first type of roux is a blond roux.
This one is most commonly used in a Bechamel sauce, which is one of the five Mother sauces. It’s cooked just until the flour is cooked and you will notice a light nutty aroma.
The next level is a brown roux. This is when you continue to cook the roux even further until it starts to become slightly darker in color as well as in aroma. This will commonly used in darker sauces or in some other stews and soups.
Lastly, there is a black roux. The black roux is when the color and aroma become quite dark. You don’t want to take it to literally black in color but you do want it to be much darker then your normal brown roux.
The black roux is only used for one thing: Louisiana Gumbo. This is going to bring a depth of flavor that is unmatched in any other dish.
The texture of this should be smooth and silky. The key is to keep it over low to medium heat and to continue stirring. This will enable even cooking and even browning. It is possible to burn a roux and it’s definitely something you don’t want as it will be very bitter and unpleasant in taste.
Once you achieve your required texture and color, place this to the side to allow it to cool down. Now you can start preparing your gumbo!
Another important part of gumbo is your cooking vessel. You need a thick bottomed pot for this stew. It doesn’t seem like a big deal but trust me, you don’t to spend all that money on your ingredients and go through all the trouble of making that roux to risk scorching it. I use my Le Creuset Cast Iron Pot, which works beautifully. I recommend a cast iron pot or another type of thick bottomed pot.
So into your pot over medium high heat, goes your bacon. As I said, Cajun and Creole cooking is not low fat. This is going to give you your oil for your dish. Render down your bacon and then remove your pieces to the side.
Next in the hot oil, give your andouille sausage and chicken a quick sear. This is done just to lock in some moisture. Get some color on both and then using a slotted spoon, place it to the side.
Now we are ready to add in the Holy Trinity: your onions, green peppers and celery as well as garlic. Toss everything to evenly coat the vegetables in oil and to begin cooking. Now, start adding in your Cajun Seasoning, bay leaf, black pepper and salt. Make sure everything is incorporated.
Now add in your sausage, chicken, shrimp, bacon pieces and stock. Once this are all stirred in to combine, you are going to start adding in your roux. At this point, this should be cooled a bit.
You always want to add hot roux into cold liquid or vice versa. If your roux is still hot, add it right in before your stock gets hot. This will have it incorporate better into the stew and prevent it from breaking, causing the butter and flour to somewhat separate.
Stir in the roux spoonful but spoonful. You should see that the gumbo is beginning to really thicken up. Continue doing this until all the roux is incorporated in. Lastly, add in your okra. This can be frozen but it’s the last key addition that makes gumbo truly authentic.
Now turn your heat down to low and allow this to cook on low for at least one hour. The longer you cook it, the more flavor it’s going to have. Give the gumbo a taste along the way and add in more seasonings if desired. This dish is all about the flavor!
After your cooking time is done, remove your bay leaves and serve with rice. Garnish the top with some sliced green onions and enjoy!
I hope you fall in love with this dish and this cuisine the way I did way back when. It’s something that is so unbelievably unique and quintessentially New Orleans in it’s taste, creation and style. Happy Mardi Gras and Happy Eating!
Authentic Louisiana Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo
Yields 3 Quarts Gumbo
Prep Time: 20 minutes Cook Time: 1 Hour
- 8 tbsp butter
- 1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 cup bacon, diced
- 16 oz. andouille sausage, sliced into 1/2″ pieces
- 16oz. chicken breast, boneless, skinless, cut into 1/2″ pieces
- 1 yellow onion, diced
- 1 green bell pepper, diced
- 4 celery ribs, diced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tbsp. cajun seasoning (without salt)
- kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 3 bay leaf
- 2 quarts chicken broth
- 1 lb. shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 1 cup sliced okra
- 3 green onions, sliced
- cooked white rice, for serving
- In a large, deep skillet over medium-low heat, melt butter, then add flour. Cook, stirring constantly, until dark caramel colored, about 20 minutes.
- In a separate thick bottomed pot over medium heat, add in your bacon. Render down to get the fat out. Remove bacon pieces with slotted spoon and set aside.
- Add sausage in and cook slightly to brown. Remove with slotted spoon and set. Do the same with the chicken to add color and lock in moisture.
- Add onions, peppers, celery, and garlic and stir until softened, about10 minutes. Season with Cajun seasoning, salt, pepper and bay leaf.
- Add sausage, chicken, shrimp and bacon. Stir in chicken broth and then start stirring in roux spoonful by spoonful.
- Add in okra, and stir to incorporate.
- Reduce heat to low and simmer until thickened, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour. Taste and adjust seasonings over the hour.
- Serve spooned on top of white rice and garnish with green onions.